Every year post the annual Delhi Couture Week, I draw out the top couturiers amongst those who showcased. This year too after much deliberations and revisiting the high-resolution images of the creations showcased by the couturiers at the just concluded PCJ Delhi Couture Week 2012, I have drawn out ‘My’ Top 3 Couturiers. The list is in ‘alphabetical order’.
Anamika Khanna’s collection was an absolute treat to the eyes. Her ensembles were not typical Indian Wedding Wear (Wedding Wear dominates our Couture Week) but a nice blend of traditional and modern styles. I loved the intricate texturisation, innovative silhouettes, great assortment of fabrics, amazing colour story and of course perfect tailoring. Scalloped lacy jackets over lehengas and dhotis, the high-collars, the sari-gowns or the magnificent floor-duster coats – all gave a modern touch to traditional Indian ensembles. Sheer Salmon pink dupattas or layerings over ivory coloured ensembles livened up the look dramatically.
Manav Gangwani impressed me with his gowns – be it the monochromatic ones or the more dramatic red ones. I loved the OTT detailing, which I look forward in a Couture show, liked the shapes and above all the fit that is so integral to a couture piece. A couture ensemble has to fit on the model immaculately! The sheer fishnet gown with embroidery concealing the vitals did shock some of my fellow scribes but in a couture show that is more than permissible. The Indian styles were ‘Blingy’ but then that is something Gangwani’s clients love.
Varun Bahl was the first to establish that the ‘colour’ of the season’s gonna be Indigo. The sheer net bodices were absolutely sensual and the placement of embroidery was imaginatively innovative. One look at Varun’s collection and you would understand how vital ‘placement’ of embroidery is. Gradient shading – lighter shades blending in to darker ones – was beautifully used on saris and the contrast coloured embroidery on them beautified them further. I heard the saris are already taken. The use of the colour black gave an uber-chic look to Bahl’s beautiful collection. Classy is the word to aptly define it!
Nothing like sipping bubbly and watching some great creations on the ramp. Well that exactly was what we were treated to on the 2nd Day at PCJ Delhi Couture Week 2012 at Anamika Khanna and Gaurav Gupta’s ‘off-site’ show at Evoluzione at The Kila in Mehrauli. Anamika Khanna’s couture collection was simply fabulous. The intricate texturisation, innovative silhouettes, great assortment of fabrics, amazing colour story and of course perfect tailoring made Anamika’s collection a treat to the eyes. Well crafted jackets over lehengas or magnificent floor-duster coats gave a modern touch to traditional Indian ensembles. Sheer Salmon pink dupattas or layerings over ivory coloured ensembles livened up the look dramatically. Evoluzione has got an ace up their sleeves by securing the rights to sell the magnificent Couture Collection of Anamika Khanna.
Earlier on Day 2 at DCW 2012 the designer-duo of Ashima-Leena garnered applause for their collection that was very classy and stylish. The show opened with sequence in ivory/white where tonal embroidery using pearls interspersed with emerald stones and muted Gota work embelllished the sarees, churidaar-kurtas and lehengas. Deft juxtaposition of ornate blouses with plain sarees, kurtis with kerchief hemlines, sheer Tulle bodices and innovative designs like lehenga-saree were some high-points of the beautiful collection. Kudos to Ashima – Leena for showcasing a beautiful collection.
Over the years ‘Off-Site’ shows during Delhi Couture Week and the bi-annual Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week has assumed great importance as they are taken to be as ‘premium’ shows. Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Bal and Rajesh Pratap Singh have had the honour of doing ‘off-site’ shows earlier.
The idea behind ‘off-site’ shows are primarily to allow the designer the leverage of having and creating an ambience of their choice. But in India it is also seen as matter of prestige. It is like, ‘I have arrived if I am doing an off-site show.’
For the upcoming Delhi Couture Week 2012 scheduled between August 8 to August 12 2012 designers Anamika Khanna and Gaurav Gupta are ‘blessed’ with the ‘off-site’ show. The duo will have their showing at the expansive fashion store – Evoluzione at the One Style Mile in Mehrauli.