The Synergy1 Delhi Couture Week 2011 ended in a crescendo and peaked with the last show by none other than Rohit Bal. He truly amazes me as season after season Bal comes out with a collection that is simply awe-inspiring.
I often debate that Couture in India shouldn’t be confused with wedding wear. Many disagree with me but if we see Couture in Paris, we get to understand it clearly. As per me couture collection of a designer showcases the limits of his/her creativity, the expanse of his/her vision that often takes us on a flight of fantasy and is a reflection of what the designer’s RTW collection would be. Couture collection necessitates a whole lot of drama, as it is often larger than life vision of a couturier.
Based on these parameters I have chosen three couturiers who showcased a couture collection that deserves appreciation.
Rohit Bal showcased a fabulous collection. His collection did not have Bling that many associate with Couture. But the very finesse, the intricacies of detailing on each ensemble, innovations and the overall luxe feel of the ensembles deserves salutations. Bal’s classic silhouettes of A-Shaped ensembles with tapered torso flowing out voluminously at the hem and his floor-duster jackets were embellished with dori-embroidery, copper-coloured metallic threads, Gota, appliqué and cut-work that brought to life the Peacock motif used predominantly literally made them ‘Museum Pieces’. Hats off to Gudda and his depth of creativity!
Manav Gangwani on the other hand is the master of Bling. But Bling alone can’t make an ensemble beautiful. What matters are the tasteful employment of Bling, their placement and above all the finish of the ensemble. The fishtail gowns were exquisitely crafted; the finish looked immaculate and to that Manav added loads of drama by moulding the crystal-encrusted collars like dramatic capes. The color story too was interesting and the shaded yellow sarees, tiered gowns with Gota borders and Corset-like bejeweled tops grabbed many eyeballs.
Gaurav Gupta yet again showed his mastery over drapery and his 3-dimensional embroidery stood out brilliantly. His pre-stitched sarees with bejeweled pallus draped in sensual form would find many takers but the real breath-taking pieces were the one-shoulder gowns crafted with draped technique and corsage like creations on the shoulder.
Other Couturiers who deserve mention for a goo collection are Varun Bahl and Shantanu & Nikhil Mehra.
The Second Edition of the Pearls Delhi Couture Week scheduled for 20th to 24th July 2011 at The Taj Palace Hotel has a jury vetted list of Couturiers, which definitely failed to impress me. After a great debut last year, I was expecting a better lineup of couturiers this year but from information procured from sources the ‘probable’ list that I drew up has some names that were shocking.
Mind you these names are ‘Probables‘. The final vetting and the final list is yet to be done. Yet some names are so shocking that I wonder what the jury is like. Yes there has been an issue of top couturiers not ready to show this year, which probably necessitated this diluted list but then that’s no excuse.
As per reliable sources the ‘Probable’ list of Couturiers who are going to showcase their collection at the forthcoming Pearls Delhi Couture Week 2011 has names like Rohit Bal, JJ Valaya, Suneet Varma, Varun Bahl, Manav Gangwani, Gaurav Gupta, Manish Malhotra, Ashima-Leena, Anju Modi, Mandira Wirk and Shantanu & Nikhil Mehra (There is an extra name – 11 instead of 10 as a couple of designers who showed last year too are not fully confirmed). Frankly I was expecting a much better lineup. Am disappointed and sincerely wish the Jury does something and get some true couturiers in the list.